Betws-y-Coed does Christmas well. The village sits where the Conwy, Llugwy and Lledr valleys meet, wrapped in the forests of Gwydir, and in December it trades the summer crowds for frosty mornings, woodsmoke and pubs with the fires lit. If you want a festive break in Eryri (Snowdonia) that mixes good food and drink with a proper walk, it is hard to beat. For markets and Santa trains elsewhere in the park, see our guide to Christmas in Eryri.
Back in 2013 the Royal Oak Hotel ran a pre-Christmas micro festival here, the “Merry Little Oakfest”, with carol singers, local acoustic acts, mulled wine, mince pies and a hog roast in its Stables bar. That event has been and gone, but the spirit of it, a cheerful knees-up in a mountain village, is still very much what December in Betws-y-Coed feels like. If you are combining a visit with gift buying, our guide to Christmas shopping in Eryri covers the best independent shops town by town.
Eating and drinking in the village
Betws-y-Coed has a good choice of hotel bars, inns and cafés within a short walk of each other, which makes it ideal for a festive evening out without needing the car.
- Y Stablau (The Stables) at the Royal Oak Hotel: a bar and restaurant known for freshly prepared food and a focus on local produce. It is a good place to try North Wales beers and gins.
- Hotel bars and inns: several of the village hotels serve food to non-residents. In December, booking ahead is wise, especially for weekends and Christmas party nights.
- Cafés: for a warming lunch or hot chocolate after a walk, the cafés along the main street and near the station are handy.
Opening hours change in winter and over the Christmas period, so always check with the venue before you travel. Our guide to traditional Welsh food explains what to look for on the menu.
Festive flavours to look out for
- Mulled wine: spiced, warm and as Christmassy as it gets. Many bars serve it through December.
- Local beer and gin: North Wales has plenty of small breweries and distilleries, and local bars often stock them.
- Welsh lamb and beef: on many winter menus, often from farms in the surrounding valleys.
- Bara brith: the traditional Welsh fruit loaf, lovely with butter and a cup of tea.
If someone wishes you “Nadolig Llawen” (Merry Christmas), you now know how to say it back.
Work up an appetite: winter walks
A festive lunch tastes better after a few miles on foot, and Betws-y-Coed is surrounded by low-level walks that work well in winter:
- Riverside paths along the Llugwy towards Swallow Falls (Rhaeadr Ewynnol), which is at its most dramatic after rain.
- Forest tracks in Gwydir Forest Park above the village, with small lakes and old mine workings.
- A gentle loop over the Pont-y-Pair bridge and along the river.
- A steadier climb through Gwydir Forest from the village up to Llyn Elsi, a quiet upland lake with views towards the mountains.
Daylight is short in December, so set off early, wear proper footwear for wet and icy paths, and carry a torch. Higher ground nearby can be properly wintry, so check the mountain forecast if you plan to go further. Our Betws-y-Coed guide has more ideas for things to do.
Planning a December visit
- Getting there: Betws-y-Coed has a railway station on the Conwy Valley line, which is a relaxing way to arrive. See our parking and transport guide.
- Where to stay: hotels and guest houses in the village fill up for Christmas and New Year, so book early. Our where to stay guide covers the options.
- Other villages: if you are making a longer trip, our guide to the villages of Eryri covers Llanberis, Beddgelert and more.
FAQs
Is Betws-y-Coed busy at Christmas?
It is much quieter than in summer, but popular for festive breaks. Book restaurants and accommodation ahead for weekends and the days around Christmas and New Year.
Can I get to Betws-y-Coed by train in winter?
Yes, the Conwy Valley line serves the village, though services are limited and can be disrupted by weather. Check timetables before you travel, especially over the holidays.
Is the Merry Little Oakfest still running?
No, that was a one-off event in December 2013. Check with local venues for what is on each festive season.
