Carneddau

The Carneddau are Wales in a different mood — vast, open, and sometimes featureless, a rolling plateau of grass and boulder that stretches north from the Ogwen Valley towards the coast. Carnedd Llewelyn (1,064m) is the highest point in Wales outside the Snowdon massif, and on a clear day the views north to Anglesey and the Irish Sea are extraordinary.

The Mountain

No other range in Wales gives such a sense of space. The Carneddau plateau stretches for miles without significant descent, linking eight summits above 900 metres in a single high-level traverse. This is the terrain of the Welsh 3000s challenge — the 24-hour push over all 15 Welsh peaks exceeding 3,000 feet includes six Carneddau summits.

Carnedd Dafydd (1,044m) is the second summit of the range and is usually traversed before or after Carnedd Llewelyn. Between them the ridge is broad and grassy, the going straightforward in clear weather. The northern and eastern flanks of the range drop steeply to the Conwy Valley, while the southern escarpment provides dramatic views down to Llyn Ogwen and across to the Glyderau.

The feral ponies that graze the high plateau are descended from domesticated Welsh mountain ponies released centuries ago. They are accustomed to walkers but should not be fed. Encountering a herd on the cloud-wrapped plateau, moving silently through the mist, is one of the more memorable experiences the mountains of Eryri can offer.

Routes to the Summit

South Ridge from Ogwen: The standard approach climbs from Ogwen Cottage up the broad south ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen, the most southerly of the main Carneddau tops. The ascent of Pen yr Ole Wen is steep and unrelenting — one of the most punishing initial climbs in Eryri. From the top, the plateau opens out and the remaining summits are linked by easy walking.

From Bethesda via Cwm Llafar: A quieter approach from the north that gives a different character to the range. The valley is remote and atmospheric, with the northern cliffs of Carnedd Llewelyn rearing ahead. Less trafficked than the Ogwen routes and more suitable for those seeking solitude.

Carnedd Dafydd and Carnedd Llewelyn circuit: From Ogwen, ascend Pen yr Ole Wen, traverse east to Carnedd Dafydd, continue to Carnedd Llewelyn, then descend via the southeast ridge to Ffynnon Llugwy reservoir and back to the valley. A full mountain day of around 7 hours.

Practical Notes

Navigation is the key skill on the Carneddau. In mist the plateau is genuinely disorienting — there are few distinctive features and the ground rolls endlessly. Accurate compass work is essential. The plateau is exposed to wind and the weather can deteriorate rapidly. Carry full waterproofs at all times. In winter the Carneddau hold extensive snowfields and the ridges can be corniced — experience and winter equipment are required. The walk from Ogwen to Carnedd Llewelyn involves around 1,000m of ascent: build in adequate time and carry food and water.