Caernarfon

Caernarfon is the most historically significant town in north Wales: the site of Edward I's most formidable castle, the location of the Investiture of the Prince of Wales, and one of the most strongly Welsh-speaking towns in Britain. Its medieval walls are intact; its castle is a UNESCO World Heritage Site; and its market square is the living centre of a Welsh-language community that has survived centuries of colonial pressure to remain defiantly, vibrantly itself.

Getting There

Caernarfon lost its mainline railway connection in 1972 (the Beeching cuts), but is well-served by buses from Bangor (which has fast trains from Chester and London Euston). The Welsh Highland Railway — part of the Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railway network — connects Caernarfon to Beddgelert and Porthmadog in a spectacular narrow-gauge journey through the mountains. By road the A487 connects to Bangor in the north and Porthmadog in the south; the A4086 leads east to Llanberis and the mountains.

The Castle & Walls

Caernarfon Castle is Edward I's masterwork: begun in 1283 following the conquest of Wales, its polygonal towers and banded masonry imitating the walls of Constantinople (Edward had been on Crusade). The Eagle Tower — the castle's most distinctive feature — dominates the Menai waterfront. The town walls, enclosing the medieval town, survive almost completely and can be walked for much of their circuit. Together, the castle and walls are the best-preserved example of a medieval bastide town in Britain, and their UNESCO World Heritage designation (shared with the other Edwardian castles of north Wales) is deserved.

The castle was the site of the Investiture of the Prince of Wales in both 1911 (the future Edward VIII) and 1969 (the current King Charles III). Both ceremonies were controversial in Wales; the castle's history as a symbol of English colonial power is not forgotten locally, and the tension between its status as a heritage attraction and its meaning as a political monument is part of what makes Caernarfon interesting.

What to See & Do

Beyond the castle, the town itself rewards walking. The Saturday market fills the square; the independent shops on Castle Street and Hole in the Wall Street include some of the best Welsh-language bookshops and independent retailers in north Wales. Blas restaurant (see Snowdonia 100, #59) offers the best cooking in the town. The Menai Strait waterfront gives views across to Anglesey. The Victoria Dock marina has been redeveloped in recent years and has decent cafes and restaurants alongside the pleasure craft.

Where to Stay

Hotels

The Royal Welsh Yacht Club Hotel and several other small hotels occupy converted Victorian and Georgian buildings within and just outside the town walls. The Gwesty Seiont Manor, a country house hotel 3km east of the town on the banks of the Seiont river, is the most comfortable option in the area — it has a spa, good food, and a setting that gives easy access to both the town and the mountains. Within the town walls, options are more modest; the best are well-located for exploring on foot but not luxurious. Expect to pay £90–£160 for a standard hotel room in town, £150–£250 at Seiont Manor.

B&Bs and Guesthouses

Caernarfon has a good selection of B&Bs in the Victorian terraces around the town, several of them inside or immediately adjacent to the town walls. These tend to be well-priced (£70–£110 per room) and to give the closest access to the castle and town centre. Welsh-speaking hosts are common — this is one of the most reliably Welsh-speaking towns in Wales, and the B&B sector reflects that. Several guesthouses have long-standing reputations; the Caernarfon tourist information centre (or its online equivalent) maintains a current list.

Self-Catering

Self-catering in Caernarfon ranges from cottages within the walled town (rare and sought-after) to properties on the Menai waterfront with strait views. The Llŷn Peninsula, a 30-minute drive west, has excellent self-catering stock for those wanting a coastal base from which to explore both the peninsula and the mountains. Several Landmark Trust properties in the wider area — including historic buildings in varying states of eccentricity — are worth checking for something distinctive.

Camping & Hostels

Cadnant Valley Caravan Park, on the edge of the town, is one of the most convenient camping options near a major north Wales town. Several farm sites in the Seiont and Gwyrfai valleys offer quieter camping within easy reach of Caernarfon and the Llanberis mountains. The YHA Llanberis hostel (15 minutes by car) is a better budget option than anything in Caernarfon itself — more characterful location and better access to the mountains.

Booking Advice

Caernarfon is a year-round destination less dependent on beach tourism than other north Wales towns. The castle draws visitors throughout the year; the town's Welsh cultural life continues regardless of season. Summer weekends (particularly when events coincide with castle or town events) can compress accommodation. Outside school holidays, Caernarfon is relatively easy to book at short notice — one of the advantages of its position slightly off the main tourist trail.

When to Visit

The Saturday market is a reason to time a visit for the weekend. The Caernarfon Air Show (summer, alternate years) packs the town. The town is well worth visiting in autumn and winter — the light on the castle, the quieter streets, the market continuing — when it has a more authentic daily-life character. The Welsh-language community is the constant: present and visible at any time of year.