The Rhinogydd are Eryri's least visited mountains — ancient, trackless, heathery, guarded by miles of deep heather and hidden bog. Rhinog Fawr (720m) is their highest reachable summit on a single day, and the approach via the Roman Steps — an ancient paved trackway that predates any Roman presence here — is among the most evocative in the national park. This is Experience #19 of the Snowdonia 100.
Route Details
| Start | Cwm Bychan car park, near Llanbedr |
| Distance | 10km return |
| Ascent | 550m |
| Time | 4–5 hours |
| Terrain | Rough — deep heather, boulders, no clear paths above the steps |
| Navigation | Demanding — compass essential, GPS useful |
The Roman Steps
The paved trackway known as the Roman Steps was probably constructed in the medieval period as a packhorse route through the Rhinogydd — though archaeological evidence is inconclusive and some sections may be older. Whatever their origin, the steps climb dramatically through a narrow defile in the rock, the dark slabs forming a staircase through boulder country that feels genuinely ancient. The route was used by drovers moving cattle south through the mountains to English markets.
Above the Steps
Above the steps, all traces of path disappear. The terrain is heather, bog, and boulder — the oldest exposed rock in Eryri, Cambrian quartzites laid down over 500 million years ago. The summit of Rhinog Fawr is a fine viewpoint looking south to Cadair Idris and Cardigan Bay. The Rhinogydd feel genuinely remote: no paths, no other walkers, no sounds except wind and ravens. For those who find the more popular mountains too busy, this is Eryri's best secret.
Experience #19 of 100 — Routes and Ridges category.
Independently written — Snowdon.com