Wild Camp on the Carneddau Plateau — Experience #100

Wild Camp on the Carneddau Plateau — Experience #100

Photo: Ian Greig, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

To camp on the Carneddau plateau — below Carnedd Llewelyn, at 900 metres, with the Carneddau ponies grazing nearby and the Irish Sea visible to the northwest — is to experience Eryri in its most elemental form. Wake before dawn and watch the sun rise over the mountains while the valleys below are still in darkness. This is Experience #100 of the Snowdonia 100, and the last.

Camping in Eryri

Wild camping is not formally legal in England and Wales as it is in Scotland, but it is widely practised in the uplands of Eryri and is generally tolerated by the national park authority on the basis of the Leave No Trace principles: camp away from roads and habitation, leave no waste, move on after one night, avoid camping near water sources. Eryri National Park's own guidance reflects this pragmatic approach.

Best locationBelow the summit plateau of Carnedd Llewelyn, on flat ground near a stream
ApproachVia Pen yr Ole Wen from Ogwen — 2–3 hours to the plateau
Leave No TracePack out all waste; use a trowel for human waste; no fires
EquipmentFour-season tent; sleeping bag rated to −5°C minimum; full mountain kit

The Night on the Plateau

The Carneddau plateau at night, in clear weather, is one of the finest places to be in Wales. The darkness is substantial — no road within sight, no artificial light — and the stars are correspondingly brilliant. The ponies may approach the tent during the night, curious and apparently unbothered by human presence. The dawn comes slowly from the east, the valleys still dark below while the summit ridges catch the first light: Tryfan's profile catching the sun before the Ogwen Valley below is visible at all.

The Last Experience

Experience #100 is the last of the Snowdonia 100 for good reason: it requires the most commitment, the most knowledge, and the most willingness to be genuinely present in a place without the mediating structures of accommodation, roads, or other visitors. It is what Eryri offers at its most complete — the mountains on their own terms, at their own pace, in their own time. All the other 99 experiences have been preparation for this one.

Experience #100 of 100 — Hidden Eryri category. You have completed the Snowdonia 100. Return to the Snowdonia 100 hub.

Independently written — Snowdon.com